Crossing Bass Strait in a Sea Kayak

Myles Redward & Nick Lightfoot
Myles Redward & Nick Lightfoot
Myles Redward & Nick Lightfoot
“Where ships and yachtsman fear to go,
A humble kayak made it so.
As two brave men
By strength of hand
Made passage safe
To Van Diemons Land"
(P. Reardon 2005)
Myles Redward & Nick Lightfoot
Myles Redward & Nick Lightfoot

Day 1 (26th Dec 04): Tidal River to Refuge Cove

The alarm went off at 6am. The day we had been waiting and training for, for so long had finally arrived. After a rushed breakfast and a few last minute alterations to the kayak we set off to Wilsons Prom to begin what was to potentially be the most challenging and difficult couple of weeks of our lives.

We arrived at Wilsons Prom at about 10:30. We pulled into the carpark and met Nick and his family who had come to wave us off and wish us well. The weather for our 1st day of paddling was looking good with the sun shining and blue skies.

With the tide a long way out, we were able to drive the cars along the beach right out to the mouth of the river. This was a huge advantage as neither of us particularly fancied dragging the fully laden kayak along the beach.

After a lengthy photo shoot and the final goodbyes, the trip was underway. It was just after 11am that we negotiated our way out through the breakers at Tidal River. I turned around to wave goodbye to the small group of family and friends that had assembled on the beach to wish us well and realised that the hole we had cut in the kayak for the bilge pump was taking on water. This was to be the first of many problems we would encounter throughout the day. The added weight of the fully packed kayak meant that we were sitting very low in the water and taking on board. Nick suggested that whilst we would probably make it to Refuge Cove, the leaking boat would need to be addressed before our first extended open water crossing to Hogan Island.

When we dropped the rudder, we realised that our problems had only just begun. The attempted fix to the rear foot pedal the night before had caused the rudder to jam and the boat to veer left. At length we discussed the possibility of returning to the beach to address the rudder and bilge pump, but concern about the ridicule, humiliation and the accusations of lack of preparedness got the better of us.

We pressed on into a mild headwind, but as went round the point, the wind shifted and we enjoyed a temporary tail wind. The sail went up and for a short while, we made good progress. When the wind picked up the sail collapsed. A poorly tied stay rope had given way under the increasing winds. A need to constantly correct the kayak as it veered left made the going difficult and without the added pace enjoyed by the sail, progress was slow. With the distribution of weight towards the back of the boat, Nick was now sitting in a good two inches of water. The water around the lighthouse resembled a washing machine as the waves refracted off the rocks - adding to our list of concerns. However, with less than an hour to paddle however, the end was in sight.

Even though this leg of the journey had been done before as part of the countless hours spent on the water in training for the crossing, it was with tremendous relief that we pulled onto the beach at Refuge Cove just before 4pm. Nick wound in the fishing line that had been trawled behind since we left Tidal River only to find a reasonably sized Barracuda on the end. Who knows how long it had been on there. After a quick assessment of the state of the boat and the realisation that one of our water bladders had burst, later to be attributed to a poorly placed fishing hook, the fish was cleaned and filleted and we prepared for dinner.

The rudder, sail and bilge pump were fixed without any major issues as we turned to see a flock of albatross (Diomeda Cauta) enjoying last of the bite size pieces of seasoned barracuda. The pasta just wasn’t the same, especially when eaten with hands due to an oversight in packing cutlery. Determined to catch a fish, Nick spent the next two and a half hours trying in vane to bring in the big one. With the next three days forecasting fleeting heavy rain and strong winds, tired and exhausted, we retired to bed. We were to be here for three days.

Day 2 (27th Dec 04): Refuge Cove

We woke at about 10am after a comfortable night under the stars. Despite brief periods of sunshine through the clouds, winds were still strong. We lit a small fire and for hours I tried with limited success to dry my wet clothes from yesterday’s paddle.

After lunch we decided to move camp to Refuge Cove proper. We re-packed the kayak and set off on the 30 minute paddle around the corner to the camping ground. Within seconds of throwing in the lure, we caught a fish. This process was repeated a number of times and by the time we arrived at Refuge Cove, we had 4 good size Barracuda in our bag.

There were a number of yachts anchored in the inlet at Refuge Cove. We stopped briefly to talk to the crew of ‘De Je Blue’ who told us the forecast for the next 2 days was not looking good. ‘De Je Blue’and ‘Fiji Express’ (the crew of which we would soon meet) were on route to Flinders Island. We would frequently encounter both boats over the coming fortnight.

As we pulled ashore, a number of interested hikers gathered round to listen to the details of our planned trip and ultimate destination. ‘You must be mad’ was a phrase we had become quite use to hearing.

The sun was setting as we enjoyed a fish curry big enough to feed a family. Over dinner we debated the location of our camp and not long after 8pm, I retired to my sleeping bag on the beach. It was a cold and windy night, but I was asleep within minutes.

Day 3 (28th Dec 04): Refuge Cove

We woke at around 9am after an uncomfortable and interrupted sleep. After a quick breakfast, we walked to the top of nearby Mount Latrobe. At the top we could just make out the outline of Hogan Island, nearly 50 km away to the east on the horizon. Suddenly I was hit with an overwhelming sense of dread. What were we doing? Bass Strait has a reputation for being one of the most dangerous stretches of ocean in the world and we were about to attempt to paddle across it in a kayak!

After lunch we decided to paddle back to where we had camped the previous night. Another four fish were caught in quick succession and after returning to the beach we were particularly careful to conceal our dinner as we enjoyed a swim in the afternoon sun in the shelter of our cove.

The rest of the afternoon was spent preparing the kayak in the hope that tomorrow would provide us with the window of opportunity we needed for the big crossing to Hogan Island. The scratchy reception on the am/fm radio gave us regular updates on the cricket and the tsunami disaster in South East Asia. After a phone call to the weather bureau from the satellite phone, we were relieved to hear the forecast looked positive. Relief was soon replaced with a feeling of nervous anticipation for what the following day would bring.

A further phone call to Emily to pass on the news of our planned departure in the morning was cut short when the battery died in the satellite phone. We checked the spare battery and were horrified to learn that this too was flat, rendering the phone useless. This was a problem. Both batteries were charged in full, checked and re-checked before we left, meaning they had to be faulty. This compromised the safety of the trip. After a lengthy discussion we decided to continue tomorrow as planned. Annoyed and frustrated we retired to bed early. Tomorrow would be a big day.

Day 4 (29th Dec 04): Refuge Cove to Hogan Island

We woke at around 7am and after an unhurried breakfast and a thorough assessment of the prevailing weather conditions, we set off. Our destination could not be seen as we paddled out of the cove and would be nothing more than a promise on the end of a compass bearing for the first 2 hours. The forecast we had been given the previous night was for a 10 to 15 knot southwesterly wind. As we paddled out past the protection of the cove, whilst the wind was only slight, it appeared to be coming from the southeast. We convinced ourselves that once we got out into the ‘clean wind’ unaffected by the prom, it would swing around to the southwest and give us the tail wind that would make this leg of the journey so much easier. It never happened.

For nearly 12 hours we pushed into an at times howling head wind. Progress was painfully slow and conversation at a minimum. Stopping to rest was not possible, as the wind, and now the current were against us. Any stopping meant losing ground.

On the horizon to our left, a container ship could be seen heading in our direction. As it got closer, we became increasingly concerned that we were on a collision course. Unsure whether to continue paddling forward, stop or rapidly paddle backwards, Nick suggested we put the sale up in the hope we would be seen. Whether this had any effect or not, we were both relieved to see the ship pass in front of us just a few hundred metres ahead.

The wind dropped away for a short period and by midday, Hogan Island could frequently be seen from the peak of the undulating swell. A pod of Dolphins swam by, seemingly oblivious to our presence as ‘Here comes the sun’ by the Beatles played on repeat in my head. For a short time, I think I was enjoying the paddle. The wind soon picked up again and just as quickly, my enjoyment level dropped. Unenthusiastically we pushed on.

As we approached our destination, we encountered a strong tidal race. By now we were both exhausted from a full day of paddling and desperate to complete this leg of the journey. For a further hour and a half we battled against the current before we rounded the point and finally pulled up on the beach next to a small hut. Exhausted, wobbly, and covered in salt, we dragged ourselves out of the kayak and up the beach toward the hut. We had made it!

After a rushed dinner and both of us nursing blisters and sore shoulders and arms, we retired to the hut. Within minutes I fell asleep only waking once throughout the night to the sound of rats running around the hut. Too tired to care, I drifted immediately back into a deep sleep.

Day 5 (30th Dec 04): Hogan Island to Deal Island

We awoke at around 8:30 and wandered outside. There was not a cloud in the sky or a breath of wind to be felt. Conditions were perfect. Despite still being sore from the previous days marathon paddle, we couldn’t miss this opportunity, convincing ourselves that the 35km to Deal Island in these conditions would be easy.

We washed our salt-stiffened clothes using the fresh water from a nearby tank. We left them to dry in the morning sun and set off to explore the island.

The view from the top of the island was well worth the walk. To the west, you could see Wilson’s Prom 55km away. 35km to the southeast, Deal Island could be seen. This would be our next destination.

After packing up the boat and applying several layers of sunscreen, we were on the water by 11am. The first couple of hours passed by uneventfully. Two yachts could be seen on the horizon to our right travelling under motor in the millpond like conditions. After yesterday’s paddle, it was almost eerie being in the middle of such a dead calm ocean.

About half way through the crossing, I turned around expecting to see Hogan Island from where we had come, directly behind us. I was shocked to see it nearly 45 degrees to the southwest. We were encountering a fairly strong tidal push to the right. We compensated for this by adjusting our line and ferry gliding the rest of the way. As we got closer, we aimed for the gap between Erith and Dover Islands despite having been told that only at the highest of tides can a kayak be paddled across the rocks. With the added effect of fatigue, we figured that the worst case scenario of dragging the plastic kayak over the rocks for a few metres would be a lot easier than paddling the entire way around to the mouth of Murray Pass.

As the hours passed, and the distance between us and our destination became less and less, it became increasingly apparent that the ‘gap’ between the islands that was to be our entry to the refuge of ‘East cove’, was not a gap at all. One hundred metres of sharp, jagged rocks now lay before us. By this time, the effects of the last 48 hours had well and truly taken their toll and neither of us were in a state to paddle the extra five kilometres around the island. For over and hour we pulled, pushed, dragged and at times, carried the fully laden kayak across the rocks. After countless falls, numerous cuts and plenty of wailing and gnashing of teeth, we were back on the water and into the final approach across Murray Pass. Relieved that our badly scratched boat was still seaworthy, and exhausted from the days events, we pulled on to the beach at ‘East Cove’ on Deal Island at about 5pm.

After re-uniting with the crews from ‘Fiji Express’ and ‘De Je Blue’, we wandered up the steep hill to the Caretakers residence, hoping to make a reverse charged call to family and girlfriends back home. ‘Ian’ and ‘Sue’ could not have been more hospitable as they listened intently to our story and plans to paddle to Tasmania. They had a three-month residency on the island under the employ of the Australian Bush Heritage Commission. After a hot cup of tea, and phone calls back home, we jumped on the back of the 4-wheel motorbike and Ian took us up to see the magnificent panoramic views from the lighthouse. From our vantage point, we could see Flinders Island (our next destination) some 65km to the south west.

Back down at the caretaker’s house we sat and listened to the ‘Mersey Radio’ weather forecast. Tomorrow would be fine. Strengthening South-westerly winds and high seas were expected for the following three days. We were now faced with a difficult decision. Do we set off early on what was to be the longest and most difficult leg of our journey, or do we wait for the bad weather to pass and to regain our strength? After much discussion, we agreed the rest would not only be essential for the long paddle to Flinders Island, but it would also give us the opportunity to explore Deal Island.

Day 6 (31st Dec 04): Deal Island

The morning of the 31st was spent lying on the beach and enjoying the sunshine. A quick check of stock revealed that we had enough food to last us a further 6 days. Conscious of our limited food supplies, but too hungry to care, we devoured our 6th meal of pasta in as many days and set off back up the hill to wander through the Deal Island museum (a tin shed) and explore some of the island.

Deal Island is the largest of six islands that form the ‘Kent Group’, an archipelago located in eastern Bass Strait. The other two main islands are Erith and Dover. Covering an area of 1576 hectares, Deal Island is an important breeding site for the Australian fur seal and many bird species including petrels, short-tailed shearwaters and the Little Penguin. Deal Island is most well known for its lighthouse. An historic heritage site, at 305 metres above sea level it is not only the highest lighthouse in Australia, but also in the Southern Hemisphere. Due to the high elevation and the visibility problems with low lying cloud, the Deal Island lighthouse was decommissioned in 1992.

The afternoon was spent lazing on the beach. We watched as nearly a dozen yachts sailed into the cove and excited families and crew ferried supplies on to the beach in preparation for the evenings New Years Eve celebrations. It was not long before an ice cold can of beer was thrust into my hand. I turned around to see Nick trying to act civilised and hold a conversation whilst juggling a beer of his own and devouring a sausage in bread. The generosity continued well into the night. We met a different and interesting mix of people that night. The fireworks and group ‘dance competition’ were a highlight.

Day 7 (1st Jan 05): Deal Island

The crew from ‘Fiji Express’ were still celebrating when we awoke at around 8:30am. Amused, we sat in the sun and watched as they stumbled around the deck in the 20 knot winds, before we wandered back up the hill to make a call from the Satellite phone that the caretakers had kindly offered to charge for us the night before. Even though fully charged, the battery would only allow us to make one phone call. Frustrated and annoyed we wandered back down to the beach stopping only briefly to talk to the friendly group from Sale that we had met the night before, as they made their way to the lighthouse.

When we got back to the beach we were confronted by potential disaster. In the strong winds, the largest and most expensive of the yachts had dragged its anchor and was drifting rapidly towards the rocks on the west side of the cove. It quickly became apparent that the crew must have been part of the large group we had passed on our way down the hill. There was no-one on the boat. I turned and ran back up the hill to alert the owner as Nick swam out and boarded the ‘Sea Wolf’ in an attempt to start the motor and steer her away from the rocks and avoid certain disaster. With some quick thinking and assistance from the one of the other yachts, the crisis was narrowly averted.

The rest of the afternoon was spent searching in vane for an elusive and miss-directed box that had been air-dropped as part of the weekly supplies to the island. The forecast for tomorrow was far from ideal, but we agreed to re-assess the conditions in the morning. We enjoyed a restful night’s sleep in the comfort of the empty and unused 2nd caretaker’s residence. The howling wind outside was almost soothing as I drifted off to sleep.

Day 8 (2nd Jan 05): Deal Island (East Cove to Winter Cove)

The wind was still strong when we woke, at times gusting to 45 knots. After an unhurried breakfast we packed the kayak and paddled slowly around to the south side of the island from where we would launch for the extended crossing to Flinders Island the following day should the weather permit. In the strong winds and at times driving rain we bobbed around like a cork as the waves hit us from both sides as they refracted off the rocks. It took us just over an hour to reach the sanctity of Winter Cove. After negotiating our way through the breakers we landed on the beach, dragged the kayak to safe ground and set about looking for a place to set up camp for the night. It didn’t take us to long find a nice sheltered area amongst the Fir trees. After lunch we spent the afternoon lying in the sun, exploring the area and playing what we had come to refer to as ‘the waiting game’. We had become quite good at this game over the last 8 days.

In the evening we walked back across to the other side of the island to listen to the weather forecast. A mild north easterly at 10 to 15 knots was forecast. This was expected to strengthen the following day before swinging around to the south west. This would be the window of opportunity for which we had been waiting, and our ticket off the island.

The crew from one of the yachts had told us about a solo sea-kayaker that was camped on Erith Island across Murray Pass. We later learnt that he had arrived the day after us and was on route from Wilson’s Prom to Tasmania. We established contact over the radio and agreed that ‘Peter’ would meet us around at ‘Winter Cove’ at 4:30am the following morning. We would paddle to Flinders Island together.

Day 9 (3rd Jan 05): Deal Island to Flinders Island (Killiecrankie)

Alarms went off at 3:30am. Conditions were perfect. We cooked a large breakfast consisting of rice with dried fruit and nuts, and packed the kayak in the moonlight. Our first attempt at pushing off the sand and out through the breaking waves left us drenched, the kayak half full of water and both of cursing the thought of the 12 hour paddle ahead in wet clothes. Our second attempt was far more successful and after having successfully negotiated our way through the breakers, we sat and waited for Peter to arrive. Forty five minutes later and there was still no sign of him. Just as we were about to head off without him, we saw the silhouette of a sea-kayaker paddle around the corner and into the sheltered cove. After brief introductions, Peter told us that after having spoken to us the night before, he had heard a second forecast. He told us he had picked up a ‘scratchy’ forecast on his AM/FM radio predicting a strong southerly at around midday. This was not good and could potentially have meant another 4 days on the island. We paddled back ashore and praying the 2nd battery on the satellite phone would work, called through to the weather bureau. The news was good. Not only did the phone work, but the winds were not expected to increase or swing around to the south until late evening. Frustrated to have wasted so much time, but relieved to be back underway, we set off again at around 6am.

Sunrise over the water was spectacular and with the conditions the way they were, the mood was good and spirits were high. Despite his late arrival and the delay caused by the inaccurate forecast, we were fortunate to have Peter accompany us on this, the longest leg of the journey. Peter was an extremely experience sea-kayaker and his presence alone made me feel a lot safer. Anyone who attempts to paddle across Bass Strait by themselves is either completely mad, or experienced enough to be confident in their ability to arrive safely at the other side. Given the association with madness, when Peter told us he was a ‘scientist’, I hoped it was the later.

We set a compass bearing and planned to stick to it all day. The strategy was to allow the strong cross tides carry us way out to the north east and, maintaining our compass bearing, have the ebb tide carry us perfectly back to out destination. We passed the time and monotony of constant paddle strokes and undulating swell, by discussing the much written about bakery at Killiecrankie and how much we intended to eat on our arrival. As the hours passed and our destination drew slowly closer, I wanted nothing more than to get out of the kayak and feel land under my feet. As Killiecrankie came into view, our pace quickened at the prospect of the shop closing. It was just before 5pm – nearly 11 hours after leaving Deal Island, when we arrived on Flinders Island. To our relief, the shop was still open, and several pies, ice creams and cans of coke were consumed as we sat on the beach and waited for Peter to arrive.

After a short rest, we said goodbye to Peter and paddled around to the next bay to stay with some family friends of Nick's, where we were greeted on the beach with cold beers. The Renwick’s were extremely hospitable, and that night we enjoyed a fantastic meal, a hot shower (the first we had had in over a week), and a warm and extremely comfortable bed.

Day 10 (4th Jan 05): Killiecrankie to Whitemark (West coast of Flinders Island)

We awoke at around 8:30am to an empty house. Following an offer the previous night to ‘stay for as long as we liked’, and given the extremely daunting task of getting back in the kayak after yesterdays marathon paddle, it was with tremendous reluctance that we decided it was best to take advantage of the good weather conditions and continue our journey.

As soon as we got back on the water, we knew we had made the right choice. A strong tail wind meant we were averaging over 11km’s an hour (nearly twice yesterday’s average speed), and with the sail up, we could expect to be in Whitemark in under 4 hours. As we rounded the north-west corner of Flinders Island, so did the wind. Our strong tail wind had now become an equally strong head wind and our rapid progress turned into a painfully slow and strenuous crawl. We hugged the shoreline in an attempt to avoid the brunt of the wind, and by ‘hopping’ from the shelter of one rock to the next, we gradually made our way down the coast.

After about an hour the winds turned gale force, and no longer were there suitable rocks behind which to take shelter. Despite paddling furiously, we were being pushed backwards. We scanned the beach for an appropriate place to go ashore, but the combination of sharp rocks and sheer cliffs made landing impossible. The prospect of heading back and losing valuable ground was too much to bear, so, with our energy levels fading fast, we landed on a small rock to further assess our options. Given that the water was fairly shallow, we agreed that the only option available to us was to tie a rope to the front of the bow and walk the boat in the knee deep water across the rocks until we could find an appropriate place to land. Cursing not having stayed at the Renwick’s and being relentlessly battered by big waves, strong winds and now heavy rain, we slowly and painfully made our way along the rocks. With careful co-operation, one of us would hold the boat whilst the other would half swim, half wade ahead with the rope in hand to a suitable rock and drag the kayak over. This process was repeated for over an hour until eventually we came across a small inlet with a sandy beach. With the last of our energy, we pulled the kayak onto the beach and took shelter. In the pouring rain our attempts to start a fire were futile, so we got into our bivi-bags in an attempt to keep warm and quickly fell asleep.

When we awoke, the sun was shining and to our great relief, the wind had dropped considerably and had spun around to the north. We packed the kayak and were soon back on the water and making good time down the coast of Flinders Island towards Whitemark. The rugged cliffs and jagged rocks were replaced by acres of farmland with grazing cattle and sheep. The occasional farmer would stop and watch curiously as we paddled slowly by, and with the sun setting we pulled in to Whitemark at around 8:30pm.

Day 11 (5th Jan 05): Whitemark – Flinders Island

After having found a room above the Whitemark pub the night before, we awoke mid morning and wandered downstairs to a cooked breakfast. With the bureau forecasting strong winds and high seas for the next three days, we spent the afternoon sitting in the pub and chatting to the locals over many a beer. We moved to the balcony to enjoy the afternoon sunshine and just as we were about to wander back downstairs to watch the final session of the cricket, a voice shouted up from the street “is one of you blokes Nick Lightfoot?” After brief introductions, we established that the voice belonged to another of Nick’s family friends. We were very kindly invited to join ‘Janet and Nick’ for dinner that evening, to which we happily accepted. After perhaps one of the nicest roast lamb dinners I have ever eaten, we returned to the pub and continued drinking well into the night.

Day 12 (6th Jan 05): Whitemark – Flinders Island

With the winds still strong, we took the opportunity to further explore Flinders Island. After having met up again with Peter, we hired a car and drove round the south part of the island. Flinders Island is the largest island of the Furneaux group, which lie at the eastern end of Bass Strait. It is about 40 km wide at its widest point and 75 km long and formed part of the land bridge that joined Tasmania to the mainland. With a population of less than 1000 (Whitemark being the most populated), the island is also a major tourist destination, particularly in the 1st week of the year when the Cape Barren Goose hunting season opens.

We drove past Mt Strzelecki (the island’s highest peak at 756m) and on to Lady Baron at the south west tip of the island where we again met up with the crew from ‘De Je Blue’. After a brief chat, we wished them well and returned to Whitemark to spend the afternoon in the pub. That night we enjoyed a seafood feast consisting of crayfish, prawns and oysters. Content and with a full stomach, I retired to bed early.

Day 13 (7th Jan 05): Whitemark – Flinders Island

We awoke early and immediately telephoned the weather bureau. We were both anxious to get going. The forecast indicated that tomorrow would see an easing of the winds and be our ticket off the island. The day was spent preparing the kayaks, washing clothes, replenishing food supplies, talking to friends and family back home, and just lazing around in the sun.

Day 14 (8th Jan 05): Whitemark to Preservation Island

After having been woken by Peter at 6:30am, it was not long before we were back in the kayak and on the water. Conditions were reasonable and progress was good. Despite the wind picking up slightly, the first two hours passed by relatively uneventfully and it was not long before we reached Trousers Point. The unusual granite rock features and sandy beaches of Trousers Point made for a pleasant and interesting place to stretch the legs and have a bite to eat.

We were soon back on the water and it was not long before we said goodbye to Flinders Island altogether and were on-route to our next destination – Cape Barren Island. There was a pleasant sea breeze to cool us as we paddled the 15km stretch between Flinders and Cape Barren Island and, at this point the tide was on our side. The wind picked up slightly as we pulled into the bay at Cape Barren. The shallow water meant that this part of the bay was only accessible by sea kayak, but soon, we too found ourselves needing to jump out and walk the boat to the beach.

Cape Barren Island is an Aboriginal community with little more that a Post Office, one shop, a school and a nursing centre. It is the 2nd largest island in the Furneaux group. After a brief wander around the town, we cooked up some pasta for lunch and debated our next move. We agreed we should try to push on to Preservation Island that afternoon, before making our final assault on Little Musselroe Bay, Tasmania the following morning.

The tide had gone out considerably during the hour we had spent at Cape Barren and it took quite some time to drag the kayak back to the water. It was a very peaceful paddle in the afternoon sun as we passed quietly by several fishing boats. As the hours passed, the tide began to turn, and it was not long before we were battling a very strong current. In the shallow waters, I could see the tide racing against us like a river, and despite having had 3 days rest at Whitemark, already I was exhausted. Through lack of other available options and determined to get within striking distance of the Tasmanian mainland we persevered. It was a tough slog, but just before 6pm we pulled into the beach on Preservation Island.

We let ourselves into the empty yet well maintained hut by the beach, and set about preparing what we hoped would be the last meal of tuna and rice for a very long time. The hut was quite basic, but had comfortable bunks, water and a sheltered outlook, and made for a comfortable nights sleep.

Day 15 (9th Jan 05): Preservation Island to Little Musselroe Bay (Tasmania)

The final leg of our trip was from Preservation Island across Banks Strait to Little Musselroe Bay at the North West tip of Tasmania. I awoke early, and sprang out of bed in the knowledge that just 40km separated us from our final destination and an end to a fortnight’s marathon paddle and a year’s worth of relentless training and preparation.

We were all anxious to get on the water, and with the wind behind us we set off just after 8am. With renewed energy, we set a cracking pace, and as we rounded the western tip of Clarke Island, Tasmania came into view for the first time. Despite the obvious excitement of seeing our final destination, we were very much aware of the reputation of Banks Strait as a rough and dangerous stretch of water. With our focus solely on the land mass ahead of us, we quite quickly became separated from Peter and did not see him again until we were within five kilometres of Little Musselroe Bay.

With only a mild north easterly and a well timed turn of the tide to contend with, we made the final crossing in good time, and it was shortly after 3pm that we pulled on to the beach at Little Musselroe Bay in Tasmania. It was almost anti-climatic as we pulled the kayak up the deserted beach for the last time. I don’t really know what I had been expecting, but it felt as though the immense effort of having crossed Bass Strait deserved a greater reception. But, we had made it. There were casual congratulations all round, followed by a refreshing and well deserved swim.

The two hours spent waiting for the ‘retrieval team’ was spent lazing around in the sun and reflecting on the journey. It is difficult to describe the emotion of having achieved something for which we had spent so much time training and preparing, something that many regarded as impossible or reckless. Relief? Contentment? Satisfaction? I’m not sure. For now, we were just happy not to have to get back in that kayak.

By Myles Redward & Nick Lightfoot