Day 5 (30th Dec 04): Hogan Island to Deal Island

We awoke at around 8:30 and wandered outside. There was not a cloud in the sky or a breath of wind to be felt. Conditions were perfect. Despite still being sore from the previous days marathon paddle, we couldn’t miss this opportunity, convincing ourselves that the 35km to Deal Island in these conditions would be easy.

We washed our salt-stiffened clothes using the fresh water from a nearby tank. We left them to dry in the morning sun and set off to explore the island.

The view from the top of the island was well worth the walk. To the west, you could see Wilson’s Prom 55km away. 35km to the southeast, Deal Island could be seen. This would be our next destination.

After packing up the boat and applying several layers of sunscreen, we were on the water by 11am. The first couple of hours passed by uneventfully. Two yachts could be seen on the horizon to our right travelling under motor in the millpond like conditions. After yesterday’s paddle, it was almost eerie being in the middle of such a dead calm ocean.

About half way through the crossing, I turned around expecting to see Hogan Island from where we had come, directly behind us. I was shocked to see it nearly 45 degrees to the southwest. We were encountering a fairly strong tidal push to the right. We compensated for this by adjusting our line and ferry gliding the rest of the way. As we got closer, we aimed for the gap between Erith and Dover Islands despite having been told that only at the highest of tides can a kayak be paddled across the rocks. With the added effect of fatigue, we figured that the worst case scenario of dragging the plastic kayak over the rocks for a few metres would be a lot easier than paddling the entire way around to the mouth of Murray Pass.

As the hours passed, and the distance between us and our destination became less and less, it became increasingly apparent that the ‘gap’ between the islands that was to be our entry to the refuge of ‘East cove’, was not a gap at all. One hundred metres of sharp, jagged rocks now lay before us. By this time, the effects of the last 48 hours had well and truly taken their toll and neither of us were in a state to paddle the extra five kilometres around the island. For over and hour we pulled, pushed, dragged and at times, carried the fully laden kayak across the rocks. After countless falls, numerous cuts and plenty of wailing and gnashing of teeth, we were back on the water and into the final approach across Murray Pass. Relieved that our badly scratched boat was still seaworthy, and exhausted from the days events, we pulled on to the beach at ‘East Cove’ on Deal Island at about 5pm.

After re-uniting with the crews from ‘Fiji Express’ and ‘De Je Blue’, we wandered up the steep hill to the Caretakers residence, hoping to make a reverse charged call to family and girlfriends back home. ‘Ian’ and ‘Sue’ could not have been more hospitable as they listened intently to our story and plans to paddle to Tasmania. They had a three-month residency on the island under the employ of the Australian Bush Heritage Commission. After a hot cup of tea, and phone calls back home, we jumped on the back of the 4-wheel motorbike and Ian took us up to see the magnificent panoramic views from the lighthouse. From our vantage point, we could see Flinders Island (our next destination) some 65km to the south west.

Back down at the caretaker’s house we sat and listened to the ‘Mersey Radio’ weather forecast. Tomorrow would be fine. Strengthening South-westerly winds and high seas were expected for the following three days. We were now faced with a difficult decision. Do we set off early on what was to be the longest and most difficult leg of our journey, or do we wait for the bad weather to pass and to regain our strength? After much discussion, we agreed the rest would not only be essential for the long paddle to Flinders Island, but it would also give us the opportunity to explore Deal Island.